Glastar Hand Foiler Method

[fig 0]	GLASTAR HAND FOILER METHOD [fig 1a] through [fig 6] illustrate threading technique THREADING METHOD #1 (Classic) 1) Foilers are provided in 3 sizes - 1/4", 7/32" and 3/16". Be sure that you're using the correct foiler for the size of your foil. 2) Pull a few inches of foil through the slot on the end of the foiler. Copper side is up, backing is down - [fig 1a]. 3) Separate a few inches of backing from copper foil - [fig 2a]. 4) Thread the BACKING straight down into the slot near the entry point - [fig 3a]. 5) Snip off an inch of backing and re-attach it to the end of the loose foil - [fig 4a]. 6) Pull the foil carefully toward the roller end (being careful to tug gently on the backing to prevent it from being pulled back into the opening where it is threaded. Push the length of foil containing the snippet of backing under the roller end - [fig 5a]. 7) Cut off that part of the foil which has the backing scrap attached - [fig 6a] - [fig 7a]. Note: Some users find this treading method to have fewer problems with backing separation and less need for re-threading. It's a little more awkward to do than Method #2. Use which ever works best for you, either method works well. THREADING METHOD #2 (Alternate) 1) Hold or place the foiler with the groove facing UP. Thread the intact foil strip (with paper backing still attached), through the slit in the end. The copper face should be UP in the groove (paper side is underneath) - [fig 1] - [fig 2]. 2) Pull intact foil (paper still attached) through and thread under the little roller on the opposite end of the foiler - [fig 3]. You will always be looking at the copper side of the foil as you thread it and when you use it. 3) Pull out a length of foil about 1˝ times the length of the foiler. Separate the paper backing from the foil and cut it off close to the foiler roller end (just cut the paper - not the foil) - [fig 4] - [fig 5]. 4) Pull the foil back into the foiler until the cut paper-backing edge clears the slotted end. It's designed to be a "self-separating" foil feed, but keep an eye that the paper doesn't get pulled back into the foiler as you use it. Peel it away occasionally as necessary - [fig 6]. You may trim the paper backing occasionally as it peels away, but usually a good length of it left trailing will prevent the "pullback" syndrome. [fig 7] is a picture of the Foil Reel by Emerald Rainbow. It's WONDERFUL for use with these foilers. There's never any twisting or runaway foil. I was using an (otherwise unused) automatic foiler as a reel but it would sometimes twist, requiring frequent re-threading. These things sit flat on the workbench and just rotate... never roll away. I strongly recommend them. Each reel holds 2 rolls of foil (same or different sizes). Use them so that the foil unrolls from the top of the roll. [fig 8] through [fig 11] illustrate straight edge application 1) Cut the working end of foil until only about Ľ" projects. Place glass into the groove under the roller (or place the foiler on the glass - whatever - just seat the glass firmly into the roller groove) - [fig 8]. 2) Pull the foil along, with the index finger over the top of the foiler close to the roller end to apply light pressure and guide it. Use the fingers on the opposite hand to smooth along the top edge and push the foil onto the sides as you progress. Push the glass along with your thumbs as you move it. Hold the foiler as closely parallel to the glass (angle down) as possible. The greater the angle used, the less likely that the application will be even on both sides. The foiler will let you gradually push the foil down with your fingers on the sides of the glass as you progress - [fig 9] - [fig 10] - [fig 11]. [fig 12] through [fig 17] demonstrate inside curve application Deep inside curves are easily done without foil breaks. Start foiling in the deepest part of the curve… about ˝" way into it - [fig 12]. Foil slowly, easing the sides of the foil onto the glass with your fingers, rubbing the edges and sides [fig 13] - [fig 14] - [fig 15]. Complete the piece by ending in that same curve, overlapping the foil Ľ" as usual - [fig 16] - [fig 17]. The overlap will cover and protect the most likely place for cracks and breaks to occur. The hand foiler makes it easy to manipulate the application while holding it in place. [fig 18] through [fig 21] illustrate burnishing technique and various tools There is no substitute in foiling for good burnishing technique. Start with clean glass (wash it in warm soapy water if necessary). Wipe, dip or soak it in rubbing alcohol. Dry with a shop towel and let it air dry completely for a few minutes. Apply foil. Burnish the center edge with a wooden fid - [fig 18]. Use a wooden or plastic wallpaper roller (be sure it has a FLAT surface) to roll the side edges flat and smooth on both sides - [fig 19]. Finish by burnishing both sides with a wooden fid, popsicle stick (I use tongue depressors) or whatever you like (pencil etc.) until the edges of the foil are smooth, flat to the glass and "invisible" to the touch - [fig 20] - [fig 21]. [fig 0] shows the tools used in this method of foiling NOTE: I should mention that this method is based on my own experience and regard for the hand foilers. It is not an official methodology, nor is it officially sanctioned by the Glastar Co. This is an attempt to provide working information for private users. No association with any commercial establishment is to be implied. All such references are made for information only. On a personal note, I know there are a lot of pictures here but the little hands you see belong to a 13 year old that I happen to love and I couldn't bring myself to omit many of them. She's pretty good with the hand foiler too. REFERENCES & LINKS Glastar Emerald Rainbow Glass Crafters
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